New Zealand Fashion Week 2013: DAY THREE – Runway Show Reviews, Beauty & Opinions…
And so with ‘day three’ comes the end of New Zealand Fashion Week. The day started with the NZFD Designer Showcase and ended on a high with Salasai.
An incredibly long and tiring week, but a week crammed with fashion and beauty means I wouldn’t miss it for the world. The sleep deprivation, the editorial deadlines, the hours on end without so much as a moment of downtime to eat, doesn’t take away from the glorious week that is New Zealand Fashion Week. I met so many new people – designers, media, bloggers and the like. I’ve made a tonne of new friends; and that’s what makes all the gruelling hours SO worth it! I actually sat back on day three and thought “wow, I cant believe this is my world! Sitting front row at fashion week, watching models drift down the runway donning fabulous outfits, reporting for some of my favourite ezines, and going backstage to hang out with the uber-talented MAC Cosmetics creative team, watching the likes of Amber D and James Molloy create beauty looks that most makeup artists can only dream of”. What a life – I wouldn’t change a thing and I’m so incredibly grateful that I get to wake up every day LOVING what I do!!
Aaaaanyway, I digress… NZ Fashion Weekend kicks off tonight with the Red Bull Opening Party, and so begins a weekend of fashion and designer garage sales, makeup seminars and designer collection shows open to the public.
NZFD Designer Showcase
This group show debuted Autumn/Winter 2014 collections from My Boyfriends Back, Millicent, Sheryl May, Mardle and Love Hotel.
My Boyfriends Back
My Boyfriends Back showcased her ‘She’s In Bloom’ collection of dark romance and femininity mixed with an endearing awkward edge. Featuring beautiful floaty dresses in rose print fabrics & devore velvet. Perfectly crafted woollen jackets and capes, alongside romantic silk maxi dresses. Burkhart’s manipulation of fabric through draping, layering and tailoring is looking to be her signature style that sets her apart from the rest.
Millicent’s A/W14 collection, aptly named ‘Blur and Focus’ showcases contrasts in form and fabric. The combination of texture with smooth & silky, fluid for firm and shine with matte tells the story of blurring the lines with fashion.
Deep jewel coloured hues of moss, purple and teal tell the story of modern femininity and sophistication. Millicent has created beautiful, effortless & completely wearable designs and the designers’ love of textiles, colour and print shines through in the detailed work of each garment, such as her leather cigarette-pants, and knit jersey rose print dress featuring a thigh high split.
Sheryl May’s ‘Reign Fall’ collection reflects the spirited bond which Sheryl has with London – her second home – a place of original fashion trends, where people of all walk of life express their style. This is the story behind May’s Reign Fall Collection.
May combines print and texture, old and new, vintage with contemporary. An owl print mixed with a floral design was the key theme throughout her collection, from full-front prints to an owl backpack. A feminine approach throughout the collection via beautiful drapey silk fabric and form-fitting tartan pieces (her well structured tartan pants were absolutely divine), mixed with the unexpected such as the floral rock star biker jacket. A beautiful collection encompassing drama and originality.
Mardle showcased her collection of ‘Way of the Saint’. A juxtapositioning of the fantastical styling of Japanese Onna-bugeisha – female warriors of the upper social classes in feudal Japan, French saint & warrior of her own time, Joan of Arc.
Mardle’s collection features graphic brocades, heavy wools and boucles, amongst printed chiffon and more traditional Japanese fabrications. Lace, merino and velveteen added a dramatic twist to the collection and the fabulous copper statement jewellery topped the collection off perfectly.
Oversized coats, wraps and tailored pieces made for a beautiful, feminine collection with an eclectic mix of eye-catching fabric. A standout range proving Mardle is here to stay!
Love On Line tells the story of Love Hotel’s collection. Inspired by today’s new ideas of femininity and dating practices, whilst referencing a time of romance through the use of layering, lingerie and lots of spots.
Love Hotel featured many floating chiffon pieces and printed kimono’s. Oversized beret’s were donned by all the models, which I quite liked, however what I didn’t overly love was the blush pink negligee affair, which tragically didn’t quite wear so well on the model and left very little to the imagination (I probably wouldn’t have sent that particular piece down the runway!) Negligee-gate aside, the collection is quite beautiful and managed to tie feminine and masculine together very well. Totally versatile and wearable pieces – pieces that I would love to don myself!
Exquisitely styled by the uber-talented Mino of FOUREYES, Daniel K hit the runway with beautifully elegant garments in a series of liquid inspired designs, wave prints and polka dots. Silk dresses and harem pants were cut to perfection, showcasing their fluidity and wearability. The knitwear was an absolute standout with the ‘blue knot knit’ and red ‘wave knit top’, I wanted to jump on to the runway and grab the garments right off the models back, I loved this knitwear so much! Completely wearable and timeless winter-wear, that had the audience looking on in absolute awe. Kimonos and double-layered silk pants graced the models in a manipulation of fabric creating texture and drama that made Daniel K stand out from the rest.
This up and coming designer is sure to take the fashion world by storm.
BMW New Generation
The BMW New Generation showcased three designers that are totally new to the fashion scene. This year we saw Beverly Riverina, Nara Paz and Crooked Seven…
Riverina’s collection ‘from fleece to fashion’ showcases, as you would expect from the name, a range of garments that have been handcrafted using various methods of manipulating wool.
An unexpected delight! Nara Paz showcased her collection ‘Impressions’. She might be new to the scene, but expect to see a whole lot more of her in the coming months. Paz’s designs were beautifully tailored, nicely stylised and quite simply – stunning! When her models sashayed down the runway, there was almost a stunned silence from the media, as we turned and looked at each other in a knowing ‘wow, these garments are amazing! This girl is new to the scene? Really? These garments are fabulous!’
Standouts for me – a tailored satin jacket paired with an exquisite high-glamour tulle layered skirt in a grey-toned hue and full-sleeved black knit dress with leather detailing and a low ‘cut-out’ back. I need these garments in my life! Now! Breathtaking!!
Another really good collection from the New Generation Show. Crooked Seven featured their collection ‘Only By The Night’. A fabulous ‘ready to wear’ range showcasing versatility, great tailoring and a really good use of colour. Slightly edgy ‘sports-luxe’ range worth seeking out! The standout for me – a black sheer shirt dress with block panelling!
The public vote for the $5000 BMW New Generation Winner was Crooked Seven. No doubt this will do wonders for thrusting this new brand straight into the limelight!
This year NZFW added a new section to the fashion schedule – Swimwear! A welcome relief from all the warm weather wear as we head in to summer here in NZ. Up until this point I had seen so many beautiful winter garments I was actually sad that winter is coming to an end. Cue Tigerlily and Surface Too Deep bringing their talent to the catwalk in the form of stylish wearable beachwear.
Surface Too Deep
Showcasing ‘The Amazing Adventures of Bonnie and Belle’ collection, the talented twosome – Wellington designers Sarah-Jane Abrams & Ester Miro put a fabulous vintage spin on swimwear in the form of yesteryear silhouettes with a modern twist. Onesies had cut-out features in all the right places and bikinis with Hollywood starlet style high-waist briefs & gold hardware had me yearning to own one of these fabulous bikinis. A sophisticated collection of swimwear, and in my personal opinion, Surface Too Deep offers a style of beachwear that woman actually WANT to wear as opposed to needing to wear when hitting the poolside or beach.
Bringing tribal prints to the fore, alongside fabulous cover-wear in the form of kimonos, dresses, jumpsuits, shorts and shirts. Hats, and bags had a boho feel with tassel, crystal and fringe detailing, and models donned sparkling bindi’s, further emphasising the boho vibe has arrived. A summer coloured palette of clever swimwear and fabulous accessories.
Kirsha Whitcher’s label Salasai bought NZFW to an end on a high note. Salasai’s ‘Liberté et Damour’ collection showcased 12 looks of which were stylised to perfection. The accessories perfectly complimented each look with the introduction of ostrich feathers, crystals and wool.
Fabulously manipulated silk and knitwear featured regularly with exquisite detailing. Beautifully crafted outerwear, harem pants, trousers and capes, bought the entire collection together seamlessly, with the standout garment of the evening being the silk bomber featuring a bird motif.
Don’t be surprised when you see Salasai on international runways within the next year or two. Salasai certainly belongs on an international platform.
SALASAI – Beauty
Key Makeup Artist: Amber D
Inspiration: “Simple, Smart & Expensive”
Products: Always Sunny and Uninterrupted Pro Longwear Eyeshadow with Blacktrack Fluidline. Posey Crememblend Blush. Please Me & Taupe Lipsticks.
Nails: M.A.C Nail Lacquer in Delicate with Nocturnelle Lacquer and Black Pigment tips by Leah Light using M.A.C
MAC Beauty shots captured by: Jessica Sim
A Girl Interrupted By Fashion, Beauty & Anything Pretty That Catches My Eye